How an izakaya works: a first-timer's guide to the night

An izakaya (居酒屋) is a Japanese pub where the food matters as much as the drinks. Locals drop in after work, order a little at a time, and stay a couple of hours. Once you know how the evening is meant to flow, it’s one of the most relaxed and fun ways to eat in Japan.

Photo coming soonThe entrance of a small izakaya with a red paper lantern and a noren curtain

The night, step by step

1. Get seatedStaff call out "Irasshaimase!" (welcome) and ask how many you are. Hold up fingers — that's enough. You'll get a wet towel (oshibori) for your hands.
2. Order drinks firstOrder a drink for everyone right away, before you've even looked at the food. Many people just say "toriaezu biiru" — "beer for now".
3. A small dish arrives: otoshiYou didn't order it, and it will be on the bill. This is normal — it works like a cover charge.
4. Kanpai!"Kanpai!" is Japanese for "cheers!". Once everyone's drinks have arrived, raise your glasses, say it together — then take your first sip.
5. Order food a little at a timeOrder a few dishes to share, then more whenever you like. Skewers and small plates come out as they're ready, not as courses.
6. Watch the clockBusy places often give you a set time — usually 2 hours, but it can be 90 minutes or 3 hours. Staff will call "last order" before the end.
7. Ask for the billSay "Okaikei onegaishimasu" — or just "Check, please", which most staff understand. Usually you pay at the register on your way out. No tipping.

The rest of this guide goes through each step and the things that surprise first-timers.

Getting in and getting seated

Walk in, catch a staff member’s eye and show how many people you are with your fingers. They’ll point you to the counter, a table or a raised tatami area (take your shoes off for that one). If they cross their arms in an ✕, they’re full — try the next place.

Before you go, read Before you go to an izakaya for seating, reservations, smoking and going solo.

Order drinks first

The first order is drinks, and it comes fast. Beer is the classic opener, but a highball (whisky and soda), a lemon sour (shōchū, soda and lemon) or a soft drink are all fine.

Tip: In older Tokyo bars, try Hoppy — a low-alcohol beer-style drink you mix with shōchū yourself.

The otoshi (the dish you didn’t order)

With your drinks comes a small appetiser, the otoshi (お通し). It’s served to everyone and charged per person, usually a few hundred yen. It isn’t a mistake or a scam — think of it as a seating charge with a snack included.

Photo coming soonA small otoshi dish on an izakaya counter next to a beer

Read more: What is otoshi?

Kanpai — the first toast

Kanpai (乾杯) is Japanese for “cheers!”. The Japanese way is to wait until everyone’s first drink has arrived, say “Kanpai!” together, and then start drinking. Nobody will scold you for an early sip — but waiting a minute for the toast is a nice way to start the night. After that, drink at your own pace. How to do it properly: Kanpai: how to toast in Japan.

Order food whenever you like

Izakaya food is made for sharing. Order two or three dishes, see what you like, and order more. A good first round:

• something quick and cold (edamame, a salad, pickles)
• a few skewers (yakitori is chicken, yakiton is pork)
• one hot dish (karaage fried chicken, an omelette, grilled fish)

The menu is often handwritten on paper strips (tanzaku) on the wall, sometimes with no prices for fish that changes daily (時価, “market price”).

Photo coming soonA wall of handwritten tanzaku menu strips at an izakaya

To call staff, raise your hand and say “Sumimasen!” (excuse me) — it’s not rude, it’s expected. Some places have a call button or a tablet on the table instead.

Can’t read the wall? That’s exactly what Izakaya Buddy is for: snap the menu and every strip is explained in English, with prices and how to order it.

Time limits and last order

At busy times many izakaya give you a fixed slot. Two hours is the most common, but it isn’t a rule — some places give 90 minutes, others 3 hours, and quiet places may have no limit at all.

Before the end of your slot (or before closing time), staff will come round and say “rasuto ōdā” — last order. After that you can’t add anything. When it comes depends on the place:

• Usually about 30 minutes before the end, for food and drinks together.
• Sometimes food stops earlier than drinks — for example, food last order 1 hour before and drinks 30 minutes before. Menus and signs show this as フードL.O. (food) and ドリンクL.O. (drinks).

Example: a 2-hour seating with last order 30 minutes before the end.

More on both: Izakaya time limits and Last order.

Paying the bill

When you’re done, say “Okaikei onegaishimasu” (the bill, please). “Check, please” works too — most staff know it. Or catch someone’s eye and make a small ✕ with your index fingers. They’ll bring a slip, or you’ll take it to the register by the door.

• Cash is still common at small places, so carry some yen. Bigger chains take cards and QR payments.
• No tipping. Leaving money on the table can cause confusion.
• Splitting is usually done by the group: one person pays and everyone settles up later. Some places can split the bill for you, though, so it doesn’t hurt to ask:

Photo coming soonAn izakaya bill slip showing otoshi, drinks and skewers

Not sure what a line on the bill is? Izakaya Buddy’s Check my bill explains each line and the total.

Quick summary

When	What to do	Say
Arriving	Show how many with your fingers	2人です futari desu (two people)
First order	Drinks for everyone	とりあえずビール toriaezu biiru
Drinks arrive	Toast together	乾杯！ kanpai!
Ordering	Raise a hand	すみません！ sumimasen!
Leaving	Ask for the bill, pay at the register	お会計お願いします okaikei onegaishimasu (or “Check, please”)

All of these, with full-screen cards to show staff: Izakaya phrases.